Hiking North Columbia Country

Table of Contents

• Couch Potatoes Gone Hiking
• Hiking BC's Silver City in the Clouds
• On the Shedroof Divide: Backpacking the Salmo-Priest
• Bears, Mountains, and Chocolate Pudding
• Hiking at Big Meadow Lake
• Other Hikes Worth Considering
• Recreation in Your Backyard

Photo of Gypsy Peak courtesy of James P. Johnson.

Couch Potatoes Gone Hiking
Hiking and Mountain-biking in the Salmo-Priest

Article and photo by James P. Johnson

Taking out the trash used to be the most strenuous hiking couch potatoes would do. But in today's topsy-turvy world, some couch potatoes have actually been spotted hiking.

The cause of this strange and disturbing trend? The natural beauty and accessibility of Eastern Washington's highest mountains. It's astonishing and true. Some C.P.'s are not only hiking, they're climbing mountains!

If climbing mountains were really tough and demanding, couch potatoes wouldn't do it. After all, they've got some sense. But the C.P. community has discovered that some mountaintops aren't so hard to reach. They can exert themselves moderately, and I mean moderately, and with their chips and beverages in tow, enjoy a view at the top that rivals what they see on their big-screen plasma sets at home.

Some people are surely scoffing at this information. Couch potatoes climbing mountains? Pure lies! Shoddy journalism!

Yet it's true and the secret is in the details.

Roundtop Mountain in the Salmo-Priest Wilderness near Metaline Falls is 6,466 feet high. Way out of reach for any C.P., you'd think. That's well over a mile up. C.P.'s have trouble going a mile horizontally.

But get this; the trailhead sits at Pass Creek Pass, elevation 5,400 feet. Even before they step out of the car, they're five-sixths of the way up Roundtop Mountain. Couch potatoes really love that.

Another thing C.P's really like is the well-maintained trail that leads to the summit. No off-trail bushwhacking, no ropes, no cramp-ons, no boots even. And if you have kids in tow, Roundtop's slopes are gentle enough that you don't have to worry about sheer drop-offs or unstoppable tumbles down nearly vertical faces.

And at the summit, what a reward you'll find. Unobstructed views in every direction. Looking north you can see well into Canada. To the east is the Idaho Selkirks and in the valley below, the shimmering waters of Priest Lake.

Though you're in a protected wilderness area, unfortunately you're surrounded by unprotected, heavily logged national forest. Clearcuts are quite abundant.

You'll find the remains of a fire lookout tower atop Roundtop which was dismantled long ago. Much of Eastern Washington's national forests were alive with a network of trails and lookouts, built mostly by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930's. Nearly every prominent peak had a lookout and some of the trails that were used to supply the lookouts are part of the present day trail system maintained by the Forest Service. Hike off-trail though and inevitably you'll come across an old path that was part of a much larger network that's un-maintained, long forgotten, and slowly being reclaimed by the forest.

Departing the summit, the return trip to your car is short and easy. However the ambitious hiker can head the opposite direction to nearby Mankato and Helmer Mountains, and with a total hike of under ten miles for the day, bag three of Eastern Washington's highest peaks in one shot.

So, exactly how long does it take to hike Roundtop Mountain? The mileage from trailhead to summit and back is just over three miles. How long it'll take depends on your condition and circumstances. Below are estimated hiking times one-way, trailhead to mountaintop.

Hiking pro in top condition: 40 minutes

Family with young, easily distracted children: 1 hour, 15 minutes

Couch potatoes with lawn chairs, coolers, barbecue, portable TV, taking half hour rest breaks every quarter mile: 8 hours

If you rate yourself a hiking pro or couch potato, you can count on a fun hike to the summit of Roundtop. Though a short hike, you are climbing a mountain and it'll take some effort. Even so-called couch potatoes may jeopardize their status by climbing Roundtop. But reaching the summit and taking in the view is a real treat, and if you're like me, you won't want to leave. What with the effort to get there and the great view, who would want to head back down?

If mountain biking's more your thing, this trailhead will work for you, though not the trail to Roundtop. Since bicycles are prohibited in wilderness areas, the Shedroof Divide trail is off limits. However, a tenth of a mile short of the pass you'll see a sign marking the trailhead for Trail 503 to Grassy Top Mountain and Hall Mountain. This trail is outside the wilderness area and open to bicycling.

What makes this a nice mountain bike ride is the fairly level terrain. You'll climb steadily the first mile and a half or so, but not too steeply. Thereafter the trail follows ridges and is mostly level.

If you ride to Hall Mountain, the last mile and a half as you approach the summit is steep, and by the time you return, you'll have covered about 20 miles. The ride to Grassy Top is shorter, about an 8-mile round trip. Both routes have a good mix of thick forests and open terrain that allow great views of the surrounding landscape. Trails to both mountains are well-maintained and best of all, rarely used. I've used this trail on several occasions and only once have I encountered another person.

If you wish to spend a few days really getting to know the Salmo-Priest, there are three well-maintained USFS campgrounds on Lake Sullivan. In addition, there are several well-used, un-maintained (and free!) sites along Sullivan Creek, which parallels Road 22 to Pass Creek Pass.

There's a Forest Service ranger station on the lake and I've found in my past quests for information that the staff is friendly and helpful.

So bring tent, maps, hiking guides and all your outdoor paraphernalia and enjoy a stay in this secluded, mountainous land that is alluring and inviting to all, from diehard, kamikaze mountain-bikers to ever-munching couch potatoes.

Reaching Roundtop Mountain and Trail 503 From Metaline Falls, drive a couple miles north on Highway 31 as if headed to Canada until reaching Sullivan Lake Road. Turn right and drive five miles to Forest Service Road #22 (Ignore the turnoff for Road 2220 which you'll come to first). Road 22 is marked with a sign listing the mileage to Priest Lake, Salmo Mountain, and East Sullivan Campground. Take Road 22 and drive six miles until coming to a fork. Bear right, staying on Road 22.

The road climbs steadily for another 8.4 miles until reaching Pass Creek Pass which is marked by another mileage sign. Continue down the other side another two-tenths of a mile where you'll see a sign for Shedroof Divide Trail #512, which takes you to Roundtop. Just past the trailhead is a pull-out on the right with space for two cars. If no space is available, there's ample room back at the pass summit.

Be aware that marmots live among the boulders at the pass summit. Marmots have been known to chew on the hoses of car engines and the damage can cause your car to be undriveable. I once returned from a hike and two of the animals had crawled inside my engine compartment. Fortunately they hadn't done any damage and I was able to drive home. But it may be best to park at the pull-out rather than the summit.

The Shedroof Divide Trail is fairly well-maintained, thus easy to follow. It climbs steadily, but skirts the summit and continues north. You'll need to leave the trail at its high point and take the unmaintained spur trail to the summit. If you find yourself on a long downhill section and you haven't turned off yet, you've gone too far.

The spur trail to the summit becomes hard to decipher at times. However, the walking is easy through the open, grassy slope. You should be at the top within ten minutes of leaving the main trail.

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Hiking BC's Silver City in the Clouds
Rich views and a striking landscape is what you'll reap in this old Selkirk mining town.
Article and photos by Craig Romano

From my aerie perch on Idaho Peak, 6,000 feet above the valley floor, the world around me glistened. The sun was high in the sky. Beams of light radiated across the sprawling landscape. The surrounding ice, snow and water sparkled upon catching the wayward rays. Gleaming light reflected off the valley mist. Dew drops draped on the petals of wildflowers that lined the trail shimmered. Indeed, the entire Slocan Valley was emanating a silvery sheen. The Silvery-Slocan is the name bestowed upon this region. And on this day from this vantage I couldn't agree more with that moniker. But the Slocan took on its argent title for its mineral wealth -- not its natural beauty. However, the mother lode is now spent, the veins run dry, and the glory holes now produce only whispers and memories. But the Slocan's striking landscapes still fetch a premium. Her mountains are rich with flora and fauna. Her rivers flow with a wealth of beauty, and her lakes shine like precious gems. And best of all, these priceless charms are accessible to all who take the time to slow down and explore this lustrous land. There's no better way to enjoy the Silvery Slocan than by hiking. And there's no better place to begin than from the ghost town of Sandon, BC's Silver City in the Sky, once the bustling commercial capitol to this mining district.

During its heyday at the turn of the 20th century, Sandon was home to over 5,000 people. Twenty-nine hotels, 28 saloons, theatres, an opera house, three breweries, countless brothels, and two rail lines serviced the city. Sandon was the first community in British Columbia to be powered by a hydro-electric facility. But as fast as the city grew, it went into demise. Nature had other plans for this community. Floods devastated it. Fires engulfed it. And finally, as is the case with other mines, the mines eventually ran out of pay dirt. Today, Sandon houses only a score of inhabitants. And only a score of buildings remain. A dirt road now connects the community to the outside world, the railroad tracks long gone. But take the time to locate this fascinating little place, for although Sandon no longer serves as a commercial hub, it's now a center for hiking and mountain biking -- and a great place to relive some of the West Kootenay's fascinating past.

Sandon is located in a deep valley in the Selkirk Mountains, about 8 miles (13 kilometers) east of New Denver (60 miles or 100 km north of Nelson). Wedged in a deep valley, the old town is surrounded by towering emerald peaks. Carpenter Creek crashes through the town site. The turbulent mountain waters thrash and churn, audible throughout the valley. You can spend a good week exploring this area. The prospects are good in this old mining town. Here are three top-notch hikes, saturated with history and exploding with natural beauty to get you going.

The Galena Trail

Why drive to Sandon when you can hike there! The Galena Trail utilizes part of the old rail bed that once ran from Sandon to Nakusp. In 1998 residents of New Denver helped convert the former rail line into a multi-use trail suitable for mountain biking, hiking, and -- when snow blankets it -- cross-country skiing. The five-mile stretch from New Denver to Three Forks (just outside of Sandon) is an easy and pleasurable hike. Elevation gained along the way is a mere 600 feet (180 meters). A galena is a mineral-rich ore, and although you probably won't find any along the way you're sure to pick up a nugget or two of local history. The surrounding natural features all bear names that attest to the area's illustrious mining past.

The Galena Trail runs parallel to Carpenter Creek, the waterway named for Eli Carpenter, the French-Canadian prospector who in 1891 found galena ore in what would become Sandon. Under a canopy of cool forest and along a gentle grade wanders the creek that once powered generators that produced riches. Now a place of tranquility, listen to the melodic waters and watch for flitting water ouzels.

A mile or so up the trail will bring you to Capella Creek, a crashing tributary that flows down from 6,300-ft Mt. Carpenter. Named for a magnanimous star, the Capella mining claims went nova.

At the Three Forks, where Kane and Seaton Creeks flow into Carpenter, the trail comes to its terminus. But first, Carpenter Creek must be crossed, and this is done by use of a hand-propelled cable car. It is a thrilling way to end this hike. Hikers who lament that the old cable car across the Cheakamus River near Whistler was replaced by a bridge will love the Carpenter car. Have fun!

Kaslo and Sandon (K & S) Rail-trail

The K & S trail is one of the easiest hiking trails in the valley, perfect for children, people short on fitness, and just about everyone else. The 3.0 miles (5 km) from Sandon to the Payne Bluffs is nearly level. And although you can easily hike to the bluffs and back in three hours, you'll want to make at least a half-day out of this hike. The trail is literally littered with historic artifacts. En route you'll pass mine shafts, old signs, cables, ore cars and rail ties. You'll venture through old depots, mining camps, and work yards. And you'll be granted views from a bird's eye perspective of the Carpenter Creek Valley, glimpses of the glacial-clad peaks of nearby Valhalla Park, and a vertigo-inducing peek down precipitous Payne Bluffs.

Nice touches along the way are the numerous interpretive plaques. They'll help aid in your understanding of this fascinating area. The trail utilizes the old rail line that once ran to Kaslo on Kootenay Lake. The line wrapped around the rugged mountains to hold a grade gentle enough to allow passage for trains. This required some blasting and difficult engineering around Payne Bluffs. Although trees have now grown along this spot, it was once an open and exposed area, leaving more than a few rail passengers sitting -- literally -- on edge. Through gaps in the encroaching greenery, you can still get a sense of the awe this ride once instilled. It's a 900 foot drop straight down below to Seaton Creek. Payne Bluffs is a good place to take your lunch break. While feasting and resting, be sure to listen to the wind and ravens. You might even be able to hear a few voices from the past.

Idaho Peak

The supreme hike in these parts belongs to Idaho Peak. Many a Kootenay hiker has ventured to this 7,400-foot peak (2,244 m). The hike is short enough and easy enough for just about anyone with a muster of energy. But it still requires a little climbing to give you that sense of accomplishment. The real challenge, however, isn't in the hike -- its getting to the hike. Access to the trailhead requires a good sturdy vehicle (preferably high-clearance) and steady nerves. Idaho Peak is reached via a steep and torturous 8 mile (13 km) forest service road from Sandon. The narrow road climbs 3,500 feet (1050 m), utilizing tight switchbacks. Patience and good mountain-driving judgment are essential.

But boy is it worth it! From the heights of the access road there are two ways to get to the old fire lookout. The shorter Idaho Peak Trail traverses along the hogback ridge for just over one mile (2 km), climbing 500 feet (150 m). The more preferable Alamo Trail begins below the main Idaho Peak Trail. Although this trail adds a couple of hundred feet of elevation gain and another .5 mile (1 km) to the hike, it's well worth it. The Alamo Trail rounds an open bowl with stunning views above of the peak and lookout as well as striking views below of emerald alpine pools. The high basin below is often filled with avalanche debris and covered in snow.

By mid-summer the grassy slopes of the bowl are adorned in a mosaic of wildflowers. A profusion of colors -- scarlet, violet, magenta, gold, and snowy white -- will dazzle you as you work your way to the summit. Only the 360-degree panoramic view from Idaho Peak's summit instills more awe than the floral show that lines the trail.

Once you can lift your nose from the ground, take a deep breath and inhale the alpine views that'll saturate your senses. A sea of snow-capped, glacial-clinging, craggy peaks surrounds you. And 6,000 feet directly below you is the immense fjord-like Slocan Lake. Its silvery waters shine. In fact everything around you gives off a silvery sheen. This is the Silvery Slocan, a place that remains priceless, and a place where you can strike it rich in rewarding hikes and outdoor adventure.

Craig Romano has "prospected" many a Kootenay and other Northwest trails. His findings can be read in numerous magazine and websites including the park reports for Canada's theweathernetwork.com. He is also the author of the just released, Best Hikes with Dogs Inland Northwest (Mountaineers Books).

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Article and photos by Dennis Nicholls

Subalpine fir crowded the trail, its dark green foliage brushing my legs and shoulders as I walked along a ridge at 6,000 feet. Sunlight filtered by clouds lazily rambling across the sky, alighted on boughs and needles, creating a green, glossy sheen that glowed in the still of the afternoon. Silence enveloped the forest, but for the background buzz of insects.

I strode along Trail No. 512, meandering south on the Shedroof Divide. The day was perfect. But then, how could it not be when I had spent three previous perfect days in the Upper Priest valley of northern Idaho and the Salmo-Priest Wilderness of northeastern Washington?

Glimpsing the country of the Upper Priest River off to the east, not paying close attention to the trail, I rounded a bend and nearly ploughed into a Cooper's hawk sitting in beargrass at the trail's edge. It had been feeding on some hapless little critter for lunch, tearing at the carcass when I came along. In an instant, it rose on majestic wings and as silent as a light breeze, the magnificent raptor glided down the trail and out of sight. The enormous bird carried its lunch with it, not about to share the delicacy of some raw meat with the hiker who had disturbed its dining.

Upon regaining my composure, I smiled and thought this wildlife moment was as good as the one the day before when I encountered a bull moose on the Salmo Divide. The large, ungainly animal had come up out of Sullivan Creek onto the trail right in front of me. The stupidly surprised look on its face must have matched the look on mine, and we stared at each other for a full minute at a distance of barely ten feet. I wondered if this black, hairy monster, standing six feet at the shoulders and probably weighing 700 or 800 pounds, was considering trampling me into the stony ground.

The timeless moment ended when the moose swung his heavy antlered head around and loped awkwardly down the trail. I waited long enough to give him a good head start, then followed his saucer-sized tracks to where he stepped off into the brush.

It was a lovely week, and I was loving every moment of backpacking in the Salmo-Priest Wilderness.

Getting Started at Hughes Meadows

What's not to love about the small wilderness area tucked into the northeast corner of Washington? It has spectacular landscapes, teems with wildlife, and has an easily accessible trail system. In addition, it is surrounded by other wilderness lands in both Washington and Idaho, lands that have just not yet been protected as such.

The Salmo-Priest is a wilderness area that marked its twentieth birthday last year, having been created in 1984. It's small, embracing 39,000 acres, but it offers some excellent backcountry experiences, nonetheless. A seldom-used route into the east side of the wilderness begins at Hughes Meadows. From here, there are several loops to choose from; but be prepared to wade at the very start, as the trail crosses the Hughes Fork of Upper Priest River at the south end of Hughes Meadows. The bridge over this waist-deep stream fell into the water long ago.

To get to the trailhead at Hughes Meadows, travel north from Priest River, Idaho, on Highway 57 to Nordman, a distance of 36.5 miles. A couple miles past Nordman the pavement ends and the highway becomes Forest Road No. 302. Stay on it for 14 miles to Granite Pass, then take Road No. 1013 just over four miles to the junction of Hughes Meadows Road No. 662. Go 2.1 miles to a fork, bear left, and go another 1.1 miles to the trailhead, for a total of 58 miles from Priest River. The smokejumper cabin at Hughes Meadows is another 0.4 mile beyond the small parking area at the trailhead, which will accommodate two or three vehicles. It is best to turn around at the cabin.

Also, check with the Priest Lake Ranger District about the accessibility of this trailhead. There has been a rumor that the road to Hughes Meadows could be closed.

Backpacking Loop #1 -- Hughes Fork-Shedroof Divide-Jackson Creek

What's it like? The common starting point for each of these loops is at the southern tip of Hughes Meadows on Jackson Creek Trail No. 311. A rock-lined path leads 100 feet to the stream, which must be waded. Depending on the time of year, it is likely to be three feet deep, so be prepared with wading shoes and a change of clothes. Once across, the trail is hidden in head-high grass, but it is easy to find your way through to the rotting boardwalk overlaying boggy areas. A sagging bridge then crosses Jackson Creek before the trail enters the magical world of an old-growth cedar forest.

About one-half mile through this ancient grove of forest monarchs, the trail forks. Hughes Fork Trail No. 312 goes right and parallels the west side of the meadows. Beyond the meadows the trail crosses the Hughes Fork again, which is usually dry later in the year at this point, in an area burned in 1926 by a large forest fire. Giant cedar snags still stand as reminders of that 80,000-acre inferno. You might have noticed a sign for Trail No. 319 along the way, and you might also have noticed on your map a trail No. 313, but neither of those trails has been maintained in many years. Once across the Hughes Fork for a third time, and this time you can expect water and wet feet, the trail climbs a ridge rising to the Shedroof Divide. About 7.5 miles from the trailhead, you hike over the top and a short distance down the west side to the junction with Shedroof Divide Trail No. 512. This is approximately mile 13 on Trail 512. Also at this junction is Shedroof Cutoff Trail No. 511 coming up from Sullivan Creek.

Turn south and enjoy ridgeline hiking for the next 6.5 miles, although you can expect some significant ups and downs along this divide. There is a water source at mile 8.3 on Trail 512. Another mile or so farther is the junction with Jackson Creek Trail No. 311. Also, Thunder Creek Trail No. 526 joins the divide here from Gypsy Meadows. From here it is 5.6 miles back to the trailhead at Hughes Meadows on Trail 311.

Distance and Time: almost 20 miles, 2 days

Campsites: The water source at mile 8.3 on Trail 512 offers a primitive campsite nearby. Remember to use "Leave No Trace" ethics. A couple of other primitive sites have been used at the junction of Trail 512 and Trail 311.

Water: Finding water is generally not a problem in the Salmo-Priest. The Hughes Fork will almost certainly have water north of the meadows, plus there is another small stream that flows year-round a short distance beyond the third crossing of the Hughes Fork. There may be water on the east side of Thunder Mountain in seepy areas crossing Trail 512 at about the 9-mile point, but don't count on that. A good spring is located at mile 8.3, and there is also water in Jackson Creek a short ways down from the saddle where trails 512 and 311 join.

Optional Hikes: A mile north of the junction of Trail 312 and Trail 512, a non-maintained spur trail (about one-half mile) climbs to the top of Shedroof Mountain (6,764 feet), which has been cleared for use as a helicopter landing. Farther south along Trail 512, maybe a quarter-mile from the 8.3-mile spring, is a spur trail that gains the summit of Thunder Mountain (6,560 feet).

Backpacking Loop #2 -- Hughes Fork-Shedroof Divide-Salmo Loop

What's it like? Follow the directions in Loop #1 across the Hughes Fork on Trail 311, up Trail 312 to the Shedroof Divide, then turn north on Trail 512. The trail goes around the west shoulder of Shedroof Mountain, then drops steeply into a saddle where Salmo Divide Trail No. 535 hooks up. This is an 18-mile loop called the Salmo Loop that begins at the Salmo Pass trailhead three miles back along Trail 535.

Continue northwest on Trail 512, skirting Little Snowy Top, and come into the shadow of Snowy Top, the highest peak in this part of the Selkirks (7,572 feet). In a saddle where the trail drops off the ridge, it becomes Trail No. 506. For nearly nine miles this trail passes through a magnificent forest of ancient trees deep in the valley of the South Salmo River. Almost four miles from the ridge top, a spur trail descends to the river and crosses to the dilapidated ruins of Salmo Cabin, a favorite camping spot. It is five miles from here to the trailhead at Salmo Pass, a stiff climb through a forest of gargantuan cedar and hemlock.

Take Trail 535 from Salmo Pass, which follows an old roadbed for a couple of miles, then connect with Trail 512 and head back to Hughes Meadows by way of Trail 312.

Distance and Time: approximately 36 miles, 3 to 4 days

Campsites: Atop Shedroof Mountain is a fine place to camp, though it would be dry. Primitive sites are located near a water source at the 18.2-mile on Trail 512, or about 13 miles from the trailhead at Hughes Meadows. Salmo Cabin offers a place to camp that has been heavily used, but don't go inside the cabin; if it hasn't fallen down yet, it will any day.

Water: There is water in the Hughes Fork, at the 15.7-mile and 18.2-mile on Trail 512 and down in the South Salmo River valley.

Optional Hikes: Thunder Mountain offers spectacular views of the surrounding countryside, as does Little Snowy Top. Trail No. 14 climbs several hundred vertical feet for less than a mile to an old lookout on its 6,829-foot summit. A mile or so farther north, a moderately difficult scramble puts you on top of this part of the world on Snowy Top.

Backpacking Loop #3 -- Hughes Fork-Salmo Loop-Shedroof Divide-Jackson Creek

What's it like? Just combine the two loops described above into a figure eight and plan to spend a week exploring the marvelous backcountry of the Salmo-Priest Wilderness.

Distance and Time: approximately 43 miles, 4 to 6 days

Campsites, water and optional hikes are described in the previous two loops.

For additional and up-to-date information, contact the Priest Lake Ranger District at 208-443-2512.

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Bears, Mountains, and Chocolate Pudding
Article and photo by James P. Johnson

There is a place where a hiker can choose one lofty mountain from a range of many and with a little exertion and some solid footwear, reach the summit quickly and easily using no special equipment or skills. This mountain-climbing Eden can be found right here in Northeastern Washington.

So happens that one trailhead in the Colville National Forest gives access to six mountains that are among the highest in eastern Washington, including number one Gypsy Peak at 7,309 feet. And all can be reached on a day hike (separately that is, not all six).

These hikes originate from a beautiful, high-country pasture where hundreds of bears of every size and species, from grizzly to polar, frolic and graze in communal contentment, completely oblivious to human visitors. Because of this the trailhead is called, naturally, Bear Pasture. If you have some doubt about this, just look at a map of the Salmo-Priest Wilderness. Bear Pasture really does exist. As for the frolicking bears, well, maybe I'm exaggerating (perhaps the bit about polar bears gave it away). Anyway, more information about this later.

As for the chocolate pudding, buy a pack of those individual serving cups and I'll let you know in a couple minutes how it fits into this picture.

Bear Pasture is at an elevation of about 5,500 feet, so you'll have to wait until late spring or so to reach it. But there are two reasons why the wait and the long gravelly drive is worth it. First, it's not a high-use area. Your car might be the only one there, even on a beautiful, sunny weekend. Second, you're smack dab in the middle of the highest, most rugged mountains in eastern Washington. If you're looking for spectacular, unspoiled mountain scenery in a remote setting, you found it.

There's just one trail at Bear Pasture Trailhead - Crowell Ridge Trail #515. Take it and after eight miles of walking you'll reach the summit of Sullivan Mountain. Halfway there you'll pass the high point of Crowell Ridge, at 6,885 feet, the 13th highest peak in eastern Washington. A short off-trail jaunt will take you to the summit.

By the time you return to the trailhead, you've conquered two high peaks and covered 16 miles, a long hike indeed. But it's the longest of the 6 hikes and if you're an active person, it's entirely doable in a day.

You may choose instead to climb number one Gypsy Peak. Use the same trail, but after about 45 minutes of walking, leave it as it levels out and turns south toward Sullivan. You'll head north and follow the ridge until arriving at Gypsy, a 3 mile hike.

Atop Gypsy you'll be flabbergasted by the view. Mountains everywhere you look. Serene, alpine lakes below you. The sound of rushing snowmelt rising from the valleys. You won't want to leave. But eventually you'll have to. The Forest Service has rules about planting yourself permanently on their landscape.

You may want to head back, or you can continue north to South Fork, the 5th highest mountain in eastern Washington. Just follow the ridge for a couple more miles as it descends before rising again to deliver you at the summit

Two other mountains, Leola and Prouty Peak, can be reached from Bear Pasture. They require lengthy off-trail hiking with some bushwhacking involved, which just about guarantees you'll have the entire mountain to yourself.

The work involved in reaching these summits should not go unrewarded, which brings up chocolate pudding.

It's my opinion that fresh fruit is the best food to satisfy hunger and thirst while hiking, especially on a mountain slope on a warm summer day. But following it with a cup of chocolate pudding really tops it off. Chocolatey, moist, and sweet -- it's the perfect dessert for a mountain climber, especially one who loves chocolate.

As for those bears, I'm sure they had something to do with how Bear Pasture got its name, but it's unlikely you'll see any bears there. However, some people may have concerns because extreme northeastern Washington is known grizzly bear habitat.

I've hiked many, many miles in northeastern Washington and not once have I seen any sign of a grizzly. They are rare, elusive animals and encounters with them seem virtually non-existent. I have crossed paths with black bears a few times, but in all cases they fled, panicked and fear-stricken. This and the fact that I've never heard of even one bear attack in this state during my lifetime tells me that I'm relatively safe while hiking.

So put your fears of bears to rest, pack some food (don't forget the chocolate pudding!), and make a visit to Bear Pasture. The grandeur of this wild, splendid area will make you grateful that you're alive and able to enjoy such beauty.

Getting to Bear Pasture Trailhead

From Colville, take Highway 20 eastward to its junction with Highway 31. Turn left (north) on 31 and drive through Ione and Metaline Falls until coming to Sullivan Lake Road (County Road #9345) a couple miles past Metaline Falls. Turn right and drive 4.6 miles to Forest Service Road #2212 which is marked with a sign pointing the way to Highline Road and Crowell Ridge. From there it's 18 miles of gravel to the trailhead at the end of the road. Turn left at 6.6 miles where the road comes to a T-intersection; otherwise, avoid all turn-offs.

The road is in good condition except the last two miles where water berms and potholes slow your going and alder saplings may scrape the side of your car. Also, keep in mind the road is gated at the T-intersection on August 15th of each year for wildlife considerations. Access to the trailhead is still possible -- you just can't do it by motorized vehicle.

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Hiking at Big Meadow Lake
by Randal James Richardson

Tens of thousands of years ago, a mile of ice covered most of northeast Washington. That weight, plus the rock embedded in the glaciers, scoured the land, shaping it, carving it. Big Meadow Lake resulted from just such action. Today, we see it as a 72 acre lake with hiking trails, the North Baldy Lookout Tower, a barrier free fishing platform, and a diversity of plant and animal life.

From Colville, drive about 16 miles north on the Aladdin Highway. Turn right onto Meadow Road (#2695) and drive for another seven or so miles until you reach the lake. From Ione, the lake is about seven miles west on the 2695 road.

A map and other information including an educational packet for children is available at the Colville Ranger District, 755 Main Street, Colville, (509) 684-7010.

Big Meadow Lake with its wetlands and wildlife also offers a barrier free trail and fishing platform. The pleasant .8 mile gravel packed trail passes through a grassy area near the wetlands and surrounding forest of Meadow Creek. At the western edge of the lake is the wheel chair accessible fishing platform. Made of wood and metal, the platform extends about twenty feet out into the lake creating an enjoyable area to fish, view the lake or just listen to the waves.

For those wanting both height and a view of wetlands and wildlife, the former North Baldy Lookout rises 35 feet. Try a sunrise there. Listen to the chirp of birds, the rustle of leaves and game; see the sun become a serrated pink disk cut by the trees on a the distant ridge.

For hikers, Big Meadow offers two easy trails. The 1.5 Lakeshore one loops the lake passing through stands of beaver chewed aspen, graceful cedar, spiky feeling spruce, and tall, straight pines. Midway down the south side, the trail juts out onto a peninsula. This is a simple place to quietly rest among the trees and watch the waterfowl, stare at the islands, or just listen to the lap of waves against the shore.

The 1.8 mile Meadow Creek trail follows the creek that flows from the lake. For an additional mile, hike the path to the homestead replica, a log cabin with cedar shake roof. Take a moment. Imagine life at such a homestead where the remoteness would have brought adversity as well as beauty.

North of the creek, the Meadow Creek trail winds through fir, pine and larch. Underneath, low shrubs provide a green rolling carpet. South of the creek, the trail passes through different vegetation and topography. Slight hummocks and gullies--perhaps the remainders of old streams and islands--make the walk a pleasant rise and fall. Groves of aspen dot the area, their leaves rustling in the breeze. Old, fire blackened stumps of cedar and fir rise waist high, testament to some long ago fire, logging or homesteading.

Big Meadow Lake Recreation area also has 16 campgrounds and two restrooms but no drinking water or garbage service. Regardless of why one visits Big Meadow, whether for the trees, the waterfowl, fishing, or the occasional moose, the lake is a place and time of recreating. A place to reconnect with nature. Next time you travel there think of the various textures: the light copper of the fir needles, the yellow-green of aspen leaves rustling in the breeze, the spiky needles of spruce, the splash of waterfowl. Perhaps you can look into the mirror of the lake itself and glimpse a moment of your own best rested soul.

Randal James Richardson--writer and founder of Lost Falls Brewing, is working on a mystery novel set in Colville and the surrounding area.

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Other Hikes Worth Considering

Another hike favored by day hikers in the area is Hoodoo Canyon in the Kettle Range. The 3 mile trail wanders through Hoodoo Canyon, which sports some abundant plant life and rocky overlooks. From there, the trail moves on to Emerald Lake where campsites are available for overnighters. The 6 mile round trip makes a good day for those who don't want to camp.

To get there, take Hwy 395 out of Kettle Falls. Just 6 miles north of the iron bridge over Lake Roosevelt (at the junction of Hwy 395 and 20) turn west on Forest Road 460. Six more miles up, turn left on Forest Road 9565 and drive 3 more miles to the trailhead.

Sullivan Lake offers another nice day hike along the edge of one of the nicest lake in the region. Start the 4 mile walk on the north end of the lake near the Sullivan Lake Ranger Station and head south along the eastern shore of the lake. Or start on the south end at Noisy Creek Campground and walk north. The mountain vistas, crystal water and frequent wildflowers make for good photo opportunities. Further up the slope is the home of a herd of bighorn sheep which frequent the feeding station at Noisy Creek through the winter months.

To get to Sullivan Lake, take Hwy 31 north of Metaline Falls two miles to a well-marked junction and follow the signs east to the lake.

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by Elizabeth Allen

Hiking is a form of meditation. It is a solace - managing to trivialize the stresses of everyday life. Much like a novel, it is an escape. While some choose to indulge in drugs or booze, all you really need is a challenging five-mile stretch of trail to put your life into perspective.

Nature awes us with the sculpting yet nurturing power of its elements; amazes and baffles us with its resiliency and complexity of plants and wildlife. For instance, did you know that at least 164 bird species, including owls, hawks, woodpeckers and hummingbirds, depend on the Ponderosa Pine for habitat?

When spring is in full blossom - the itch seems to be in the air to stretch legs and peel off long underwear. To celebrate spring and summer, recreating in our counties is a highlight. As a neophyte, I talked with some locals about where to walk in the woods.

Mike Swim works at Clark's All-Sports and other than four years in San Diego, has lived in Colville his entire life. "I like the area; as far as outdoor recreation - you don't have to travel far to get somewhere." His favorite place to hike? I received a quick answer - Abercrombie Mountain. The start of the trail is north of Metaline Falls, off Forest Service road 2975-350.

According to Swim, there is an extensive trail system utilized mostly by hikers and horseback riders; motorized recreation is not allowed. Interested in wildlife? He's seen elk, grouse and some of the more auspicious creatures we share our backyards with. "I think every time I've been up there I've seen a bear," said Mike.

Kim Krohn, who owns and operates Mill Creek Outfitters with her husband Randy, enjoys hiking, mountain biking, skiing, and backpacking in the area, particularly along the Kettle Crest Trail. Kim said she's seen hawks and other birds, black bear, deer, and snowshoe hare along the trail. She's lived in the Colville area for 22 years.

"It seems like more people, just in the past few years, have been coming into the store. I think there's a growing number of people who've begun to appreciate our backyards more; when you live in a place like ours sometimes you take it for granted. I think people are beginning to realize this," said Kim.

Both Abercrombie Mountain and areas along the Kettle Crest retain roadless character; on the Colville National Forest; both are unprotected from logging. What's good about roadless areas? No roads translate to wildlife habitat, unbroken forests, seclusion, and recreation opportunities. Are these good things? Well, depends upon your perspective.

"I don't like clearcuts; as long as logging is selective it's OK. Of course there are areas that shouldn't be logged, like national parks and areas that've never been logged," said Mike.

"I appreciate that we have an area that does give a feeling of wilderness in our backyard," Kim explained, "and I'm thankful the trail isn't jam packed with people." To bring diverse interests together, Kim said that the building of the Forest Service's Snow Peak shelter is an excellent example of a collaborative effort. "All of users have a lot more commonalities than we might think at first," said Kim.

As of late January, roadless areas have been shoved into the spotlight. The US Forest Service is soliciting public comment on a proposed road building moratorium in roadless areas of at least 5,000 acres which have been "inventoried,"(aka acknowledged) by the Forest Service.

Ed Abbey asked, "Can wilderness be defined in the words of government officialdom as simply 'A minimum of not less than 5,000 contiguous acres of roadless area'? This may be essential in attempting a definition but it is not sufficient; something more is involved" (Desert Solitaire). Yes; what else is involved? Passion for the land and its features? Appreciation for the world in which we find ourselves? Anti-Manifest Destiny?

Let's go to the root; where does the word wilderness come from? "It derives from the Old English wilderness, which literally means 'the place of wild deer.' In the middle ages wilderness was the name given to the hunting estates of British Royalty... It is quite paradoxical that these regal sanctuaries for recreational slaughter gave birth to nature preservation. Yet medieval gamekeepers quickly learned that ensuring numerous targets for their lord meant maintaining the deer's habitat intact" (To Save The Wild Earth). This is a strong connection - preserving habitat provides healthy wildlife populations.

Recently, roadless areas have been identified as critical to maintaining native fish habitat and water quality. Roadless areas on public lands are places we are going to have to decide how to manage, if at all. As Ed Abbey said, "But the love of wilderness is more than a hunger for what is always beyond reach; it is also an expression of loyalty to the earth, the earth which bore us and sustains us, the only paradise we ever need - if only we had the eyes" (Desert Solitaire).

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North Columbia Recreation
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